Delhi is a city of visible contradictions. If you cross the road from the Glitzy Select Citywalk Mall in Saket, you will find a different world altogether – a congested urban village called Khirki Gaon. The village is historically significant for heritage enthusiasts, for this area once was a part of Jahanpanah, the fourth city of Delhi, established by Muhammad Bin Tughlaq. Just a few minutes’ walk, and you come face to face with the imposing Khirki Masjid, or the mosque of the windows.
It has the distinction of being one of the first covered mosques of Delhi and was built by Khan-i-Jahan Junan/Juna Shah Tilangani, the prime minister of Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq. It is said that Tilangani (also spelt Telangani) constructed seven such mosques in the city. There are some disputing views among historians, but most of them agree that five of these mosques are Khirki, Kalan Masjid near Turkman Gate, Kalan Masjid in Nizamuddin, Begumpur Mosque and Jami Masjid in Firoz Shah Kotla. I have visited four of them during heritage walks organized by various groups, but the Begumpur mosque was not covered. So, one fine Sunday morning, I thought of finding it out.
I walked for around 15 minutes from Hauz Khas metro station -- keeping my focus on the GPS coordinates. The thoroughfare was busy and crowded as the monument nears, so I did not feel unsafe, though there were some curious stares, including from some in the group of local elders who were sitting on a “chatai” near its entrance and starting a game of cards. However, no one raised any objection, so I went in.
The mosque has a large rectangle-shaped courtyard and compartments all around it. There were numerous domes, just as Kalan Masjid and Khirki mosques. All of these structures are distinctive -- having those domes which look like half a globe and an entry gate a few metres above the ground level which can be accessed by a set of steps. I clicked a few pics and was looking at the huge courtyard which once also had witnessed a whole village coming up inside before the authorities removed them in 1921. I had read that there was a ladies' mosque in the compound but was not sure about its location.
Like Begumpur mosque, Chor Minar, or the Tower of Thieves, is also situated inside a residential area, in a park near Aurobindo Marg in upscale Hauz Khas locality. Built during the rein of Alauddin Khilji, the 13th century minar has 225 holes and the legend has it that heads of thieves were hung from them. Must be a scary sight, if it is true! I expected a tall structure when I read the word "minar" but this one resembles a short and stoutly built person. It is placed on an elevated arched platform. The lawns are well-maintained and the overall ambience does not emanate an eerie feeling, despite the gory and dark stories associated with it. It is definitely worth visiting once.
Post-script: While going out towards the main road, I saw a signboard proclaiming Shri Gaudiya Math. I remembered that this is a Bengal-based Vaishnavite organization and I have visited their stall in Calcutta Book Fair. Parochialism jag utha! I went in and found a beautiful Radha Krishna idol. I struck a conversation in Bengali with the priest. He gave me a Bengal-style coconut laddoo 'prasad' and asked me to visit again. That was a "sweet end" to the trip.
