I heard a light rustling sound. As if somebody or something is moving slowly behind me. And my heartbeat quickened.
I was inside a part of the ruins of Siri Fort, near the auditorium of the same name which is well-known in the capital's cultural circle for holding sarkari film festivals. I was standing in front of a beautiful mosque consisting of three doors and a single dome, named Masjid Muhammad Wali. And there was not a soul anywhere in the complex.
I came to the green and sprawling DDA Sports Complex nearby with a friend for a walk. While returning, I saw an ASI signboard and asked her to drop me there as I wanted to explore whatever's left of the famous second city of Delhi, developed under Sultan Allauddin Khalji. And here I was, standing amidst yellowish fallen leaves, trees and green shrubs in front of the old mosque, with the surroundings somehow adding a touch of serenity and soulfulness to the moment.
I read that there was not much left see in the ruins, except parts of walls. As I stepped inside through a half closed black gate, I noticed a map of the area, which mentions Muhammad Wali Masjid, Tohfewala Gumbad and Lal Gumbad. This enclosure only had the mosque, and as I treaded gingerly towards it, I was already a bit nervous because they were no one around. Not even a guard on duty. How can that be?
So, the rustling sound paced up my heartbeats. I should get out of here fast, I thought and turned, only to find the source of the sound. Two peacocks, not in their usual when-you-see-humans-run-away-as-fast-as-possible mode, but looking directly at me, as if asking me, what are you doing here, a woman alone in this garden, amid overgrown vegetation and ancient walls in which age-old stories and historical anecdotes are entrenched along with mythical heads of Mongol invaders (It is believed by many that Khalji buried ‘sir' of 8000 Mongols into the foundation and walls of his city (built between 1297 and 1307), which gave it the name of Siri.
I was relieved to see that there were no humans to be scared of (how sad it is that we always need to be on guard against our own fellow beings), but decided not to take much more chance with my luck and made a quick exit after clicking a few pics of the walls of Siri.
Outside, I discovered an ASI children's museum, the existence of which was not in my knowledge, but which had excellent replicas of famous sculptures and artefacts. There was a very interesting section dealing with how encroachment is destroying heritage monuments in Delhi.
Later, with the help of Google map and DTC bus, I visited Tohfewala Gumbad and Lal Gumbad, respectively.
As for the first one, I couldn't find its entry amid the urban jungle of Shahpur Jat and only clicked a pic from outside. Lal Gumbad, in Sadhna Enclave, is more easily accessible, situated in the middle of a park. But as opposed to Siri, Lal Gumbad complex had too many people loitering around and all of them did not look like heritage enthusiasts. However, I faced no problem or odd stares as I took a few pics of the monument. Also called the Rakabwala Gumbad (Tomb of Iron Rings), it is the tomb of Shaikh Kabiruddin Auliya, who was a disciple of 14th century sufi saint, Hazrat Roshan Chirag-e-Dilli. This tomb is said to be a replica of Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq's tomb in Tughlaqabad. It is in good condition as compared to many other lesser known heritage structures of Delhi. The tomb of Chirag-e-Dillli lies near Greater Kailash, in the area that is still known by the name of the saint.
From Lal Gumbad, those interested can visit Malai Mandir in Palam Marg as well as the Dakshin Dilli Kalibari which is situated just beside it. You need to get into a bus, though.
Lal Gumbad
UPDATE: I went on a Siri walk again on April 28 with Dastan, run by heritage storyteller Joydeep Daey. I had the opportunity of visiting Tohfewala Gumbad this time. The walk also covered two sites which I missed in my last visit -- parts of the Siri wall inside a DDA Park nearby, and the Eidgaah in Hauz Khas, constructed by Iqbal Khan (who was in control of Delhi at that time) in 1404, after the destruction and loot of the city by the invading army of Timur the Lame. Delhi was unbearably hot that day, but the walk leader kept our interests alive with his elaborate narration of the history of Siri and Allauddin Khalji, trying to cover various aspects of the reign of the Sultan in a nuanced manner. Here are some pics of the walk:-
I was inside a part of the ruins of Siri Fort, near the auditorium of the same name which is well-known in the capital's cultural circle for holding sarkari film festivals. I was standing in front of a beautiful mosque consisting of three doors and a single dome, named Masjid Muhammad Wali. And there was not a soul anywhere in the complex.
I came to the green and sprawling DDA Sports Complex nearby with a friend for a walk. While returning, I saw an ASI signboard and asked her to drop me there as I wanted to explore whatever's left of the famous second city of Delhi, developed under Sultan Allauddin Khalji. And here I was, standing amidst yellowish fallen leaves, trees and green shrubs in front of the old mosque, with the surroundings somehow adding a touch of serenity and soulfulness to the moment.
I read that there was not much left see in the ruins, except parts of walls. As I stepped inside through a half closed black gate, I noticed a map of the area, which mentions Muhammad Wali Masjid, Tohfewala Gumbad and Lal Gumbad. This enclosure only had the mosque, and as I treaded gingerly towards it, I was already a bit nervous because they were no one around. Not even a guard on duty. How can that be?
So, the rustling sound paced up my heartbeats. I should get out of here fast, I thought and turned, only to find the source of the sound. Two peacocks, not in their usual when-you-see-humans-run-away-as-fast-as-possible mode, but looking directly at me, as if asking me, what are you doing here, a woman alone in this garden, amid overgrown vegetation and ancient walls in which age-old stories and historical anecdotes are entrenched along with mythical heads of Mongol invaders (It is believed by many that Khalji buried ‘sir' of 8000 Mongols into the foundation and walls of his city (built between 1297 and 1307), which gave it the name of Siri.
I was relieved to see that there were no humans to be scared of (how sad it is that we always need to be on guard against our own fellow beings), but decided not to take much more chance with my luck and made a quick exit after clicking a few pics of the walls of Siri.
Muhammadwali Masjid
Walls of Siri
Outside, I discovered an ASI children's museum, the existence of which was not in my knowledge, but which had excellent replicas of famous sculptures and artefacts. There was a very interesting section dealing with how encroachment is destroying heritage monuments in Delhi.
Later, with the help of Google map and DTC bus, I visited Tohfewala Gumbad and Lal Gumbad, respectively.
As for the first one, I couldn't find its entry amid the urban jungle of Shahpur Jat and only clicked a pic from outside. Lal Gumbad, in Sadhna Enclave, is more easily accessible, situated in the middle of a park. But as opposed to Siri, Lal Gumbad complex had too many people loitering around and all of them did not look like heritage enthusiasts. However, I faced no problem or odd stares as I took a few pics of the monument. Also called the Rakabwala Gumbad (Tomb of Iron Rings), it is the tomb of Shaikh Kabiruddin Auliya, who was a disciple of 14th century sufi saint, Hazrat Roshan Chirag-e-Dilli. This tomb is said to be a replica of Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq's tomb in Tughlaqabad. It is in good condition as compared to many other lesser known heritage structures of Delhi. The tomb of Chirag-e-Dillli lies near Greater Kailash, in the area that is still known by the name of the saint.
From Lal Gumbad, those interested can visit Malai Mandir in Palam Marg as well as the Dakshin Dilli Kalibari which is situated just beside it. You need to get into a bus, though.
Tohfewala Gumbad
ASI Children's Museum
UPDATE: I went on a Siri walk again on April 28 with Dastan, run by heritage storyteller Joydeep Daey. I had the opportunity of visiting Tohfewala Gumbad this time. The walk also covered two sites which I missed in my last visit -- parts of the Siri wall inside a DDA Park nearby, and the Eidgaah in Hauz Khas, constructed by Iqbal Khan (who was in control of Delhi at that time) in 1404, after the destruction and loot of the city by the invading army of Timur the Lame. Delhi was unbearably hot that day, but the walk leader kept our interests alive with his elaborate narration of the history of Siri and Allauddin Khalji, trying to cover various aspects of the reign of the Sultan in a nuanced manner. Here are some pics of the walk:-
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| From the roof of Muhammad Wali Masjid |
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| Parts of wall inside DDA Park |
 |
| Tohfwala Gumbad, proper view |
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| Eidgaah |
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