Friday, 5 July 2019

Rewalsar: The Confluence of Three Faiths


To be frank, I never heard about Rewalsar before I went to a trip to Mandi in Himachal Pradesh, and was told that our itinerary includes a visit to the town. As we started our travel to Rewalsar, situated at an elevation of 1,360 m above sea level and around 23 km from Mandi, I asked the guy driving us about its claim to fame. (Generally, my first instinct is to go for Google, but during the entire two-day trip, my data connection malfunctioned).  He replied that it is sacred to people of three faiths, and the lake is surrounded by three temples, two monasteries and a gurudwara. I was somehow not convinced that a lake in the middle of a bustling town will offer a good view, and shifted my attention to the beauty of the road.

Reaching there, we took the circular path along the lake (many devotees undertake a “pradakshina” of the waters, considered holy). Standing beside it, you can have a good view of the all the places of worship and houses, painted in bright colours, Rains started pouring in, and the fluttering Tibetan flags, the temple trishul, the yellow sloping roof of a monastery, the golden dome of the gurudwara built to honour a visit by Guru Gobind Singh, contrasted and combined amid a floating mist. Towering above all was a 123-ft statue of Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, who spread Vajrayana Buddhism in Tibet. The legend is that he was teaching Buddhist principles to the local king’s daughter. The monarch, upset about it, tried to burn him, but he reappeared in the form of a young boy sitting on a lotus in the middle of the lake, a miracle that changed the king’s heart. Tibetans call it Tso Pema, or the Lotus Lake.

Braving rains, we went to the temple dedicated to puranic sage Lomash Muni. The rishi, whose name is mentioned in both Ramayana and Mahabharata, is believed to have meditated near the lake. We had to take shelter in the temple for some time as the gods were throwing down spears and arrows. After a short tea break, we walked up through narrow, serpentine lanes full of shops selling knick-knacks and then climbed a substantial number of steps to reach the feet of the Padmasambhava statue. But the panoramic view of the lake and town from above was worth the trudge. The rain was a constant companion and I was praising myself for the last-minute decision to pack a raincoat.

There are several other temples and monasteries in the area, apart from a cave shrine for the princess in the aforesaid Rinpoche story, but time was running out for us. The trip to Rewalsar, the unknown wonder, culminated with a tasty treat in a small Tibetan eatery, which served delicious mutton momos. The ice tea was too sugary, but if you think about it, it was natural to have something sweet at the confluence of three faiths.

Lomash Rishi temple


Padmasambhava statue towers above everything


View from up


Panoramic view of the town 

At a shop near the lake



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