It is generally believed that collecting too many material possessions is not good. We can carry nothing to the other world, the songs and messages of famous spiritual leaders always remind us.
Notes from the journal of a traveller from the city of joy, exploring the city of djinns.
Sunday, 20 December 2020
Of collection, hobbies and hoarding
Friday, 18 December 2020
A chilly morning and a poet’s resting place
On Mathura Road, at a walking distance from Jangpura-B where I have been staying for most part of my 20 years in Delhi, lies the grand Red sandstone mausoleum of Abdur Rahim Khan-e-Khanan (1556-1627), son of Akbar’s mentor Bairam Khan, a statesman and a general, and one of the “nine jewels” in the Mughal Emperor’s court.
Thursday, 26 November 2020
The Wizard is Dead. Long live the Magic
How to explain an ordinary middle-aged working woman, roaming in the dull world of “your kind consideration" note-sheets in a city in India, feeling empty, almost as if she has lost a near one, when she hears about the death of a celebrated footballer in a country thousands of miles away?
That Diego Armando Maradona was the first magician she encountered in her childhood.During the 1986 Football World Cup, I was 10. We didn’t own a TV set and my half-yearly exams were nearby. Still, I remember watching with amazement, at someone else's house, the short-statured stocky guy who runs like lightning, the ball stuck on his feet as if with glue, dodging and throwing off defenders on his path with casual ease.
The run, the goals, the assists -- footages of which are now easily accessible through internet, can still make someone feel better on a partlicularly gloomy day.
Reams have been written about the '86 tournament in which, as a famous football critic had said, "The Argentine artist single-handedly delivered his country its second World Cup.” With that, Maradona had barged into the psyche of (till-then) Brazil-crazy football fans of Kolkata. Newspapers were singing his paeans. Bangla children’s magazines like Anandamela were publishing articles on the childhood struggles of the man who can “make the ball listen to him”. We were trying to imitate his run during four-a-side matches in the neighbourhood. (Football was the only game in which I was somewhat okay, not the “elebele", good-for-nothing, in others) My old scrapbook still has an outline figure of Maradona, cut from an Anandamela page which I rediscovered today in internet, thanks to a blog archive called Dhulokhela.
Four years later, during 1990 World Cup, I watched every match of Argentina. The glimpses of Maradona's miracles were coming only in flashes, but it was enough for us. I was secretly coveting a no. 10 Argentina jersey, but did not tell my mom. I had learnt new words like “ball control” and “playmaker”, using them proudly during arguments with peers who doubted Maradona’s genius. If one would raise the issue of “hand of God” in 1986 QF, we will point to the “second goal” in the same match, the majestic 60-metre slice of knife that cut through the hapless English defence. Much later, years after it won the sobriquet of “Goal of the Century” in a 2002 FIFA online poll, I read the English translation of legendary description of that goal by Uruguayan commentator Victor Hugo Morales.
"Maradona on the ball now. Two closing him down. Maradona rolls his foot over the ball and breaks away down the right, the genius of world football. He goes past a third, looks for Burruchaga. Maradona forever! Genius! Genius! Genius! He's still going… Gooooal! Sorry, I want to cry! Good God! Long live football! What a goal!”
Yes, football can offer moments which can make grown people cry. It can create situations when Real Madrid fans will rise to applaud a Barcelona goal, as they did after an iconic strike by Maradona in the El Classico on June 26, 1983.
And because the “golden boy" created so many such moments in his lifetime, his controversies take a backseat in the mind of a fan. Hand of God, Cocaine, Ephedrine, unpaid taxes – all get thrown off the path to goal like opponent defenders.
Maradona Ra Mara Jan Na. Wizards never die.
P.S. I bought a no. 10 Argentina jersey in 2014
Sunday, 8 November 2020
Words, and words
The old wizard says, "words are our most inexhaustible source of magic, capable of both inflicting injury, and remedying it."
The wise say one word can be powerful enough to make or break - an empire or a heart. T
hose who know the truth, also know that words are often powerless, rebounding off the hard walls built by the mighty, the heartless, or even the introvert.
But when it comes to her, it's only words, and words are all she has, just like the song says. Mundane, meaningless words. If no one wants them, she will keep them to herself, packed in a forgotten tin box with yellowing letters and envelops.
Maybe someday, someone will again want to see them. But then, she might be somewhere else. Somewhere, where her words will not come out like this - full of doubts, haphazard, confused. One day, she won't blame herself for wasting too much time on words that are lying here and there like the toys of an untidy child. Then her words will form themselves into a train of thought that will know its route and run its course, unhindered.
Maybe in some other world?
Thursday, 22 October 2020
Puja in Covid times
Durga Puja trip to Kolkata this year is a story of ayes and nays.
In this "new normal" world, there is no frantic pandal-hopping, no clicking of pics, no eating out, no setting up 'get-together' meets with different groups of friends, no queuing up for 'bhog', no Panchami evening visit to see 'lighting' in pandals.
Yes, family lunches and dinners are there, along with Google Duo meets with friends, online darshan, app-based Puja Parikrama and live telecast of pujo in YouTube.
But I am missing the real Puja spirit, which has disappeared amid raging debates over social distancing in Puja pandals and too many stories of economic hardship in the Covid era. The world has changed, perhaps for ever, and even the desperately-trying- to-act-normal crowd, wearing matching masks with their attire, can feel it.
I, like many others, neither belong to the group of people who get upset that Durga Puja for most Bengalis is more about celebration than rituals, nor to those who view it through the complex prism of Aryans/non-Aryans. For us, it is a symbol of nostalgia, childhood memories, power of women, social inclusion, harmony, and pure, unadulterated happiness.
Happiness. A word which sounds like a joke to many people in the planet today.
Still, let's hope everyone will find it soon.
(Pic: a small terracotta statue of the goddess kept at my sister's house)
Saturday, 26 September 2020
Six songs; six memories
1989/1990: I am at school. Watching movies are a strict no-no. Mom thinks they divert attention from studies. But I get to hear the first few lines of this Hindi song on a shopkeeper's transistor radio... "Aate Jaate Hanste Gaate"
I hardly know Hindi. I love the music. Didn't know then whether it was original or not. I get mesmerized by the voice.
1991 or 1992: Still in school. Durga Puja days. Rickety wooden folding chairs in front of the Puja pandal. Hits of new films on loudspeaker. "Tumse Milne Ki Tamanna Hai". I don't get all the lyrics, only some words. But that voice, again.
1992/1993: Everywhere, everyone talks about this new film called 'Roja'. A music director named A R Rahman and his tunes. A handsome actor called Arvind Swamy. I am yet to see the movie.
My sister just bought a Philips Walkman. Our first cassette too, of 'Roja', with Swamy and the red saree-wearing heroine on its cover. "Roja Janeman" is on loop. I still don't know the meaning of "vadiyaan". But I listen to "Yeh Haseen Vadiyaan" so many times that the batteries of the Walkman often run out. Sis not too happy about it.
1994: College days. A long, long film called 'Hum Aapke Hai Kaun' in Hind Cinema, Calcutta. Popular songs, but I don't like any of them. Except the first stanza of "Pehla Pehla Pyar Hai." I sing it often, when no one's around.
1994/95: The pleasant month of February. Buying a cassette for the birthday of a friend. Of assorted film music. I select a cassette just because it has one of my favourite songs. Lyrics are not that great, but the music of "Roop Suhana Lagta Hai" is catchy; and the voices are...amazing.
2002/03: Delhi. Job. Living with friends. Watching a film called "Love" on TV. The movie is just okay. But that voice, again... and another of my all-time favourite songs..."Saathiyan Ye Tune Kya Kiya".
Keep singing, S. P. Balasubrahmanyam sir.
Tuesday, 25 August 2020
A piece of the sky
Wednesday, 8 July 2020
Dream series-1
She has come out surreptitiously, to explore the town, alone. Her family is taking rest after lunch. Sisters. Kids. Brothers-in-Law. Mom is back home.
Why have we come to this city, she wondered. It is congested. Too many cars. Too many shops. There is a sliver of a river running through it. Is this a pilgrimage centre? Otherwise nothing seems to be extraordinary about it.
She takes a turn, and the scene changes completely. Just like that!
There is a rust-coloured cobbled path. Clean. Cosy white bungalows lining up the street. The pink of bougainvillea. The yellow of Amaltas. The flaming red of palash, bringing back childhood memories. Down the way, there are a few small eateries, like the “char dukan” of Mussourie. Families roaming around, laughing, gathering in front of a cart selling fluffy cotton candy of the colour of bougainvillea. She walks on. The road is deserted this side. She looks nervously. There are only a few dogs, fast asleep.
She can see a quaint bus stop, slope-roofed. One coach is waiting there. The seats have side-handles, just like those in a roller-coaster train. She gets in. The bus is nearly full.
And suddenly, the coach jerks and whirls upwards. They are at a circular spot, covered in glassy snow, and all around it one can see a breath-taking view of layers and layers of mountains. The white peaks are gleaming with a golden hue.
She doesn’t realize when and where she comes back, only feels an urgency to return quickly and bring her family here. They should see this.
She doesn’t realise she is in a dream. She doesn’t remember anything about any life- threatening virus. She doesn’t notice that none of the people at the shops or the bus was wearing a mask. That they were not looking furtively at each other, measuring distance, avoiding touch. She doesn’t realise that this cannot be real.
She starts running back. In the dream.
(The accompanying picture is of Sikkim)
Friday, 8 May 2020
Another storm, another time
made repeatedly to another super-storm that had destroyed the city three centuries ago, on 11th October, 1737.
The “Hooghly River Cyclone of 1737”, or the Calcutta Cyclone as it is known in the history of natural calamities of the world, had caused a storm surge of 40 ft in the Ganges, reportedly triggered an earthquake and 381 mm of rain in six hours, flattening the whole town.
Eight British and three Dutch ships were lost in the storm, with many of their men and cargo. The death toll, as per the records of East India Company which was then effectively ruling the city, was around 3,000 (in some records and reports, it is noted as three lakh, which, historians agree, cannot be correct).
The cyclone had also brought down the “sikharas" of the sky-high nine-spired Nabaratna temple in Chitpore Road. The magnificent temple, called “black pagoda” by the English, was built in 1731 by Babu Gobindram Mitra, the wealthy Deputy Collector of Calcutta. Its loftiest pinnacle was said to have been 165 ft high. Old photos show that its architectural design was a bit like the Dakshineswar Kali temple, which, of course, was constructed much later.
(Source: Purono Kolkatar Kothachitra by Shri Purnendu Patri and hurricanescience. org website; pics from internet, don’t know who are the copyright holders)
Wednesday, 22 April 2020
Lockdown journal: 22.04.20
Monday, 20 April 2020
Lockdown journal-20.04.2020
As per Macmillan dictionary, its origin is of the old English words, “loc” (which refers to fastening something), and “doun”. But the word lockdown itself is being used only since 19th century. However, the instances of quarantine can be found as early as in 14th and 15th century, during the Black Death plague in Europe.
The word quarantine comes from Italian words "quaranta giorni" which mean "forty days". Under this practice, ships arriving in Venice from infected ports were required to stay in anchor for 40 days before touching the shore. A similar method, of 30-day isolation, was introduced earlier by Adriatic port city of Ragusa (now Dubrovnik). The practice continued to be followed in other parts of Europe and the US in various forms.
During the bubonic plague outbreak of 1665, the inhabitants of Eyam village in Derbyshire, England, self-quarantined themselves after a few residents got infected from a bale of clothes sent from London to a tailor. Their heroic act prevented the spread of the plague to other neighbourhoods, though the village lost 250 of its residents in 14 months. One of the villagers, Elizabeth Hancock, buried her husband and six of her seven children over a period of eight days in August 1666. The gravesite is now a British national trust monument.
Another curious quarantine story relates to Mary Mallon, a cook in New York in early 20th century. The first person in the US to be identified as an asymptomatic carrier of the bacteria that caused typhoid, Mary was believed to have caused 51 cases and 3 deaths, but never had the disease herself. “Typhoid Mary" was quarantined in North Brother island for 23 years, till her death at the age of 69 due to pneumonia.
(Information taken from the Guardian, sciencealert.com, CDC, history.com).
Thursday, 16 April 2020
Lockdown journal-16.04.2020: A tale of two thieves
"May be a homeless man who needed food and a bed, not a professional thief," my friend said, setting my train of thought back to one afternoon years ago when a thief struck at my home.
I was working in the desk of the news agency I was employed with at that time when my then landlady, who could never pronounce my name and preferred to address me by the name of my ex-roommate, called on my mobile, "beta Sheelpa, aapke ghar abhi chor ghus aya tha, jaldi aajao, dekh lo kya kya gaya". Being naturally over-reactive, I started shaking and sweating and ran to one of the bosses. He said, "but how can you can go home now, there are so many stories!" My heart was saying "your stories can go to hell", but the head did a bit of pleading and I rushed to my flat with the help of a kind car-owning colleague.
Everything was in place, except the locks and my wristwatch which I had forgotten to wear to office that day. "How come he didn't take anything else?" I was surprised. My gold earrings were lying untouched in my table drawer. "Maybe he was a drug addict and in a hurry," the colleague said.
We went to the local thana to lodge a complaint. After hearing my story, the duty officer said, "oh, it must be the same man who was caught stealing a little while ago at a house in the same area. Some people have beaten him up badly and left him here, just a few minutes back."
He took us to another room to show us a badly battered body lying on the floor. I don't remember anything else, just that at that moment I lost all desire to lodge an FIR over a wristwatch. I went home.
A few years after that, at another rented house, I returned after office one day to find the latch broken and every one of my hundreds of books spread all around, lying like the dead in the epic battle of Kurukshetra. It appeared that the guy spent at least an hour inside looking for cash, but couldn't find any money. Even my chequebook was in office. This time I had lodged a complaint, over theft of a pair of sneakers and a wristwatch (again!).
In short, the tales of thieves who broke into my homes did not have happy endings for them. Maybe, next time they will strike "gold"! Of course, for that I will have to purchase it first.
Tuesday, 14 April 2020
Lockdown journal: 14.04.2020
This year, such traders are going through a phase of uncertainty. (So are people in many professions and jobs, even in media). It is not a "shubho nabo barsho" as such.
Only hoping that everyone remains safe and comes out mostly unscathed on the other side of this.
Tuesday, 7 April 2020
Lockdown journal: 07.04 2020
* When you think of it, you realise that actually so few things are "essential" items! Provided you have electricity and running water, you need nothing else except food, drinking water, cooking gas (and stove/oven of any kind), cleaning materials, medical supplies, and a few clothes. Rest are dispensable.
Oh, and I forgot phone and internet connection!
* But friends and family are absolutely indispensable. And despite social/physical distancing, I have connected more than ever to my friends in the last few days. Many of them called or pinged, some after months, to check on me. I did so too. We are making regular video calls to keep in touch. Some friends are keeping a tab on my mental health as they know I am anxiety-prone. I don't own a vehicle, and more than one person have offered to drop groceries to my house. My friends, you know who you are! I am lucky to have you in my life.
Thursday, 2 April 2020
Lockdown journal : 02.04.2020
* I don't know about other places, but in my area, there are even fewer people on roads. The morning milk buyers have also disappeared, mostly. And all talk of nature reclaiming itself notwithstanding, I am missing humans. I am missing the hustle and bustle and even the incessant honking which otherwise irritates me so much. I hardly interact with them, but I want to see the aloo tikki seller with his too-large-to -bring-in-a -crowded-market tawa, the crisp brown patties soaked in cheap oil, "Gupta jee" ka 10 rupaye ka burger in a glass box, the fruit-juice guy with his never-cleaned machine, the children from Madrasi Basti (sorry, it is called by that name) playing in the park in front of the temple, the solitary madman in a tattered shirt, the elderly Tamil lady frying vadas in a cart placed in close proximity to the garbage dump - where have they gone? In their homes, or some of them were part of that long march back to their villages?
I don't know, but next time I see them, I will try to know more about them.
* The first week of lockdown was a smooth affair for neighbours. I could hear them laughing and gossiping with each other across the isle. But now, they seem to be a bit anxious, especially after the markaz cluster outbreak. The teenager next door who used to listen to "Lamborghini Chalayi Jaane Oo" in top volume, were yesterday unleashing a long angry rant directed at her mother. I can understand Punjabi only if one speaks slowly (therein lies the catch!). What I could gather was that she was upset about her mom going out to buy something. The other side's responses were unusually low and defensive.
* While SDMC vehicles, using water jets to clean roads and buildings, visited the locality twice last week, our RWA guys sprayed disinfectant on stairs and doors yesterday. I rushed to close the narrow gap under the door with newspapers as I felt the crawling insects will come inside. My nameplate and the tricolour I pasted on the door also got soaked in phenyl. I can think of some symbolism there, but mere paas utna bhi khali time nahi hai.
Friday, 27 March 2020
Lockdown journal : 27.03.2020
* The RWA in my colony has barricaded both sides of the street in front of our house, effectively doubling the lockdown effect. They mean well, but it has ensured that there is not a soul in sight when you go out to the balcony in the morning. So, I have taken to birdwatching. The bird I clicked as a #stayathome icon on Janta Curfew day has now given birth to two babies. I have tried to find out the species with Google lense app, but failed. It looks like a kite, but I am not sure.
* The elusive garbage van paid a visit to the block today after a gap of two days, triggering such a frantic rush of neighbourhood ladies with bags and bins that social distancing went for a toss. Cannot blame them because the van driver seemed to be in a hurry, probably unnerved by the more-than-usual crowd.
* Landlady has forwarded a video, with someone in the background giving phone numbers of SGPC and Harmandir Sahib, and asserting that Sikhs are ready to feed anyone going hungry anywhere. As you see that the pages of the newspapers are full of stories of starvation and hardship, but you cannot do anything yourself, the good samaritans like them offer reassurance that at least some efforts are being made to ease the situation.
Thursday, 26 March 2020
Lockdown journal : 26.03.2020
* The isolation of human beings have made the birds happier, chirpier and louder. But the dogs look sad, be they of roadside variety or the gentle old Golden Retriever in our block. The big guy is missing his daily walk in the park. The commoners are not getting enough food. It's a lot like the human society.
After a posse of policemen in full battle gear marched through our lane yesterday morning, the jhola-carrying shoppers and the loiterers mostly disappeared. But in the sleepy afternoon hours, the Retriver's owners came out. The lady tiptoed into the park with him. The guy, wrapping a towel all over his face except his nose (!) stood in attention outside, ready to sound an warning in case a law enforcer arrives. The roadetians resting here and there barked a few times, but sans their usual energy.
Someone has locked the park gate today. Now only the neighbourhood cat can go in.
* The non-arrival of garbage van for last two days has caused anxiety among neighbours. A few are contemplating a journey to the dumpyard. Angry words were heard this morning as they discovered that someone have kept a garbage bag in the narrow passageway. Hearing phrases like "singles staying here", I poked my head through the door and enquired about the trash collectors, to give a hint that I am not the culprit. It was a man from another floor, they later found out.
* Three boys walked through the street with a fat bunch of black cotton masks, shouting "tees ke ek, pachas ke do". There were no takers. By now, most people have collected enough masks, I thought, even though PPEs for healthcare professionals are in short supply all over the world.
* The otherwise bustling locality is so silent that even the sound of a bus passing by can be noticed. The shouts of children can be faintly heard from the slum along the railway track. The slum-dwellers are now more aware of the problem than the "educated" lot, thanks to internet.
But Social distancing is a word too big for those small hutments.
Tuesday, 24 March 2020
Prayers of a football fan
Among the 6,077 deaths, most were elderly, prompting sombre news headlines such as “a generation has died”.
Italy may mean many things to many people – history, heritage, renaissance, art, Mussolini, mafia, Italian tycoons in Mills and Boon romance, or even the Gandhis.
For me and many Bengalis like myself, Italy always meant football.
Yes, traditionally, we have appreciated the more attacking version of the game played by Latin American countries like Brazil or Argentina, but no true football fan can ignore the Italian legends.
The worst-affected Lombardy region of Italy, with over 3,000 deaths, has at its centre the metropolis of Milan, home to A.C. Milan and Inter Milan, among the biggest names in European football. Lombardy boasts of a number of footballing greats, including Paolo Maldini, considered as the greatest left-back of all time, the good-looking winger Roberto Donadoni, Andrea Pirlo, Franco Baresi, Gianluca Zambrotta and goalkeeper Walter Zenga, who holds the record of having the longest period without conceding a goal in World Cup finals tournament (in 1990).
I faintly remember Italy’s 1982 World Cup triumph and a magazine article about keeper-captain Dino Zoff, the oldest ever winner of the World Cup at the age of 40. I remember supporting Brazil against Italy in the 1994 WC final match which the former won in tie-breaker, and I distinctly remember backing “The Azzurri” conditionally as they won their fourth World Cup, defeating France in Berlin in 2006, only because I, like many other Brazil fans, wanted “revenge” for Brazil’s 3-0 defeat in 1998 WC finals at the hands of Zinedine Zidane’s team.
May Italy bring their legendary defensive skills to the fore and win this game too, against the pandemic. This is the prayer of an ordinary football fan in a country which is preparing to fight its own difficult battle to combat the virus.
Tuesday, 10 March 2020
Apocalypse, now?
The coronavirus pandemic proves, once again, that despite proclaiming ourselves as all-powerful, we are just a vulnerable, weak species, trying to lord over the universe and inventing deadly weapons to fight over pieces of land we claim to be ours, but mostly failing when it comes to combating a micro-organism or even a disease like cancer.
Some people may harbour grandiose delusions because of their race, community, religion, financial status and other such man-made things, but they also find themselves facing an equal threat as those they consider as inferior. That's why the sages and saints, the wise men, always told us about the oneness of human race, howsoever ridiculous it may sound in this age.
Pic: ftom internet
Saturday, 15 February 2020
Dalrymple's Delhi
In pic: 1. Inside a Mughal tomb which was turned into a summer palace by British official Thomas Metcalfe. 2/3. The Jamali-Kamali tomb. 4. Rajon ki Baoli 5/6. The author, in action.
Sunday, 9 February 2020
Panipat: a cricket battleground, and a 100-day emperor
Kabuli Bagh Mosque |
The cricket soldier |
Grave of Ibrahim Lodi |
Dargah of Sufi saint Baba Bu Ali Shah Qalandar |